Copper Zircon Heart Dangle Charm

A dangle usually goes below the guru bead of a bracelet, or else at the side. Hung below the guru bead it turns with the wrist; hung at the side it stays steadier. This one is light, so neither position pulls the strand off balance. On a short bracelet the side is better — it drops just beside the wrist bone. Put a split ring between guru bead and dangle and you can move it to another strand without cutting the cord.

A heart has to be small to look right. Made large it reads as confectionery; made small it keeps a little reticence. The heart here is the height of a small bead, its outline drawn in copper and a few zirconia set into the face. The outline is a single line with no scrollwork added, which keeps it clean. The lower point must be drawn in sharply; blunt it and the shape goes dull. Small also has the advantage of not standing out when strung among dark beads.

A heart is not a standard figure: it is two arcs joined to a point, and badly joined it looks fat. Here the arcs are drawn in fairly tight, the point runs long, and the whole shape is lean, so it does not sit heavily on a strand. Point down is conventional; point up carries another meaning, and whether that bothers you is your call. The two shoulders must be level — a small difference is visible. The junction of the arcs has to be pressed flat; bulge it slightly and the heart looks plump. The copper's corners are rounded, so a finger runs over it without stopping.

Zirconia is a cool white with plenty of fire and reasonable hardness, so daily wear does not scratch it easily. It is lighter than diamond, which shows in the hand, though not at this size. A very white stone against warm yellow copper holds the copper in check, and the copper does the same for the stone. The cut is round with many bright faces, so a flash comes as a sheet rather than a point.

The copper rim follows the edge of the stones and sits very low, so catching it on wool will bend it. In sweater weather, keep it inside the cuff. Clean with a soft brush and skip the ultrasonic — vibration works the settings loose. If a setting lifts, press it back gently with tweezers and a slip of paper between metal and stone, never straight onto the face. Store it separately; jammed in with other pendants, settings are the first thing to suffer. Look over the settings once a week; that is less trouble than replacing a lost stone.