White Copper Cross Vajra Adjustable Ring

Put a crossed vajra on a ring face and all four arms have to shrink. A vajra is a three-dimensional object with length and ridged prongs; pressed into a narrow band, only the centre and the outline in four directions can be kept, and the fine prongs have to be reduced or it casts as a single lump. Looking at a crossed-vajra ring, check first whether the four tips are even, because only then does it stand up. If one tip sits high and another low, it will visibly tilt on the hand.

Two vajras crossed make what Tibetan tradition calls a karma vajra, used in mandalas and in ritual and pointing to the relationship between the four directions and the centre. Its meaning differs from that of a single vajra: the single one speaks of indestructibility, the crossed one of omnipresence. The distinction is clear in iconography, though the trade often uses the names interchangeably. A buyer need not correct anyone, but a seller should know the difference. None of it affects how the ring wears; it affects how you explain it. It is called a crossed vajra, strictly a karma vajra, and once a name sticks it stays.

The two colours correspond to two characters. The yellowish version is warm, close to old brass, and looks good with dark clothing and leather; the whiter one is cool, nearer the look of silver, and crisper with shirts and denim. White copper in its natural tone darkens over time, and the yellow version shifts faster. Whether you like that change is worth deciding before you choose a colour. If your hands sweat heavily, take the yellowish one, where the colour moves more evenly.

The open band is a practical design, not a defect. The gap lets it be eased wider, which saves anyone with broad knuckles the bother of measuring. But white copper is hard, and repeated bending causes metal fatigue, so set it once and leave it rather than working it like a clasp. It is most secure on the index finger, where the horizontal bar of the cross presses against the finger and stops it turning. Adjust it with the pad of your thumb rather than pliers, which leave jaw marks. Tighten the band and the gap narrows, which looks more complete.

The four tips of the cross catch on threads. Knitwear, scarves and lace are all easily snagged, so turn the ring towards the palm when you wear them. Take it off before showering, since soap left in the recesses dries to a white film. If verdigris appears on the inner face, wipe it away with a soft cloth and a little vinegar, then dry it at once. Hand cream dulls the aged surface, but it wipes clean.